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2014年,哪种香气会席卷而来?

2014-01-07    来源:fortunechina    【      美国外教 在线口语培训

2014年,哪种香气会席卷而来?根据香料流行趋势追踪机构的预测,2014年,大家会经常在香水中闻到玫瑰和浆果的诱人香气。

年终岁末,到了我们回顾总结的时候——想想看你在Facebook网站和你的Twitter动态(以及财富网站)浏览的各类“2013年最佳XX”榜单——同时也是在美好的期待中展望未来的时候。

The end of the year is a time for looking back—think of all those "Best [Blank] Of 2013 ..." lists you've been seeing pop up on Facebook and in your Twitter feed (and on Fortune.com)—and also for looking forward in anticipation of what's to come.

对于专注特定细分领域的公司来说,趋势预测是重要的业务;Seven Scent公司就是个例子。这家公司成立于25年前,此前一直是PZ Cussons集团的香料开发部门,直到2010年才成为独立运营的企业。尽管主要业务依然集中在香料开发方面,但Seven Scent公司已经确立了在香料预测和趋势跟踪领域的领导地位。

Trend forecasting can be big business for companies with a lock on certain niche areas of focus; take Seven Scent, Ltd., for example. The company, which was established as a developer of fragrances 25 years ago as part of the PZ Cussons group, established itself as a standalone business in 2010. While its primary business is still centered on fragrance development, Seven has also established itself as a leader in fragrance forecasting and trend tracking.

根据北美的国际香料协会(International Fragrance Association)统计,全球香料市场的价值为80亿到100亿美元,其中日用香精占销售额的21%,个人护理产品占25%,家居用品占49%的市场份额。

According to the International Fragrance Association of North America, the global fragrance market is worth between $8-10 million, with fine fragrances accounting for 21% of sales, personal care products 25% and household goods at 49% of the market.

鉴于这个行业的范围,香料趋势预测可能对市场产生重大的影响,推动香水调制的选择,提供产品系列的发展趋势。Seven Scent公司最近公布了一年两次的2014-2014秋冬香料预测;你将看到——闻到!——这些香味出现在洗发水、蜡烛、洗洁精等产品中。

Given the scope of the industry, fragrance trend forecasting can have a major impact on the marketplace, driving perfume blending choices as well as informing the development of product lines. Seven Scent recently released its biannual fragrance forecast for Fall/Winter 2014-15; look—or sniff!—for these perfume notes in product releases ranging from shampoo to candles to dish soap.

玫瑰归来

return of the rose

Seven Scent公司称,全新的玫瑰香氛“用神秘和戏剧性的方式演绎了玫瑰,这似乎是玫瑰芳香出现的第三个季度,这种香料层次丰富、温和醇厚、略带辛辣,结合了藏红花和沉香的浓烈香气。”

Seven describes the next iteration of rose scents as "Offering a dark and dramatic interpretation of the rose, which appears for its third season, this rich, velvety and spicy fragrance is coupled with intense notes of saffron and oud."

沉香是从沉香树的树皮中提取的木质香料,既有甜美的香气,又有木质的香调。

Oud, or oudh, is a woody scent derived from the bark of the agar tree, that has both sweet and resiny notes to it.

购买指南:邦德9号(Bond No. 9)的纽约沉香(100毫升,售价330美元;50毫升,售价240美元)

Where to find it: In Bond No. 9's Oud New York ($330 for 100ml; $240 for 50ml) 

浓香浆果

Very berry

想想黑莓、覆盆子、红醋栗——或者像Seven Scent公司说的那样,“颜色深邃、层次丰富、饱满多汁的浆果为香料增加了深厚的层次。”这些浆果的香味更像秋天的香调,而不是夏日的香气。它们散发出新鲜的浆果芬芳,如同放置过一段时间的清甜草莓。

Think blackberries, raspberries, currants—or as Seven puts it, "dark, rich, plump and juicy berries [that] add depth to fragrances." These berry scents learn more toward the autumnal than the summery, leaving fresher berry notes like strawberries aside for the moment.

购买指南:乔•马龙(Jo Malone)的黑莓海湾古龙水(100毫升,售价110美元)

Where to find it: In Jo Malone's Blackberry & Bay Cologne ($110 for 100ml)

烈酒浓香

Scents of spirits

对于禁酒人士来说,这绝对是个坏消息!烈酒香味的调制灵感来自威士忌、朗姆酒和杜松子酒的浓郁酒香,这些香味将在2014年走红。Seven Scent公司指出,“杜松子酒味道的浆果香调、威士忌和兰姆酒的烟熏气息增加了香水的复杂层次和精致情调。”

Bad news for teetotalers! Spirit-inspired scents inspired by the smell of whiskey, rum and gin will be big in 2014, with Seven noting that "[g]in-like notes of juniper berries and the smoky aromas of whiskey and rum, add complexity and a sophisticated edge."

购买指南:Tokyomilk的杜松子酒玫瑰水(29.5毫升,售价30美元)

Where to find it: In Tokyomilk's Gin & Rosewater ($30 for 29.5ml) 

香调集合

Concentrated creations

Seven Scent公司指出,更为辛辣浓郁的香味重新回归市场,“深受欢迎的香料中散发出华丽的气息,香水成分更加神秘、辛辣,主打广藿香和琥珀。”加入一两滴这类精油也是让目前清淡的香气更加贴近潮流的一种方式。

The resurgence of spicier, denser scents are, as Seven describes it, "[a]n opulent take on popular fragrances, the darker and spicier compositions feature patchouli and amber." Adding a drop or two of these essential oils is one way to transform an existing lighter scent into something more on-trend.

购买指南:潘海利根(Penhaligon)的夜来香淡香水(100毫升,售价150美元) 

Where to find it: In Penhaligon's Night Scented Stock ($150 for 100ml)

三种不同的香调方向

Three distinct fragrance directions

除了预测四种特定的香味趋势,Seven Scent公司还拟定了所谓的“香调方向”,分别定位为男性和女性使用的香调。在三种香调方向中,第一种香调是“未来的民间传说”。这家公司把它描述为“折衷、温暖、丰富、辛辣的香料,它的调制灵感来自充满活力的多元文化世界。”

In addition to the four scent-specific trends identified by Seven, the company has also put together what it terms "fragrance directions" which can be positioned for both masculine and feminine use. The first of these three fragrance directions is "Futuristic Folklore," which the company describes as "an eclectic, warm, rich and spicy fragrance, inspired by a vibrant, multi-cultural world."

为了向科技在我们生活中发挥的作用致敬,第二种香调方向确定为“强调真实”。这些香氛可以吸引“数字一代,散发出充满活力、种类丰富的浆果芳香,令人陶醉的鲜花香气,以温暖的檀香和麝香为基底。”

In acknowledgment of the role that technology plays in our lives the second fragrance direction has been identified as "Augmented Authenticity," scents that appeal "to the digital generation, an energetic kaleidoscope of fruity berries, heady floral accents and warm base of sandalwood and musks."

2014年最后的香调方向趋势是“工程演化”。 Seven Scent公司描述这种香调具有“强烈大胆的结构,散发着油浸皮草和都市森林的气息,用金属感的麝香和琥珀树脂作为香水的复杂基底。” 

The final fragrance direction trend for 2014 is "Engineered Evolution" which Seven describes as "a strong, bold construction where oil soaked leather and urban woods lead to a sculptured base of metallic musks and amber resin."  

2014主色调兰花紫

Pantone Radiant Orchid

如果上述关于玫瑰和浆果的介绍让你浮想联翩,那么你并不是一个人:这些香味恰好符合色彩权威机构Pantone公布的2014年主色调“兰花紫”。兰花紫这种颜色被描述为一种“富有表现力、创造力和让人愉悦的紫色,”由紫红色、紫色和粉红色等色调组成,使它成了未来流行的玫瑰和浆果香气的完美主色调。

If all of this discussion of roses and berries puts you in mind of something else, you're not alone: these scents align quite tidily with Pantone's Color of the Year 2014, Radiant Orchid. Described as "an expressive, creative and embracing purple," Radiant Orchid has fuchsia, purple and pink undertones, making it the perfect color match for the on-trend rose and berry scents.

(财富中文网)



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