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超模的最美的照片究竟什么样?

2017-06-16    来源:爱语吧    【      美国外教 在线口语培训

美丽超模和她们的极品照片是如何产生的?

 

Liz Tilberis, the editor of British Vogue, asked me to do a dshoot. “You have to do the January 1990 cover,” she said. “You’re the one.” She wanted something that would preview the decade to come. My reaction was: “Oh my God, who could that be? You can’t hang the next decade on one face. It won’t work.” But I knew what would.

英国《Vogue》杂志的编辑莉兹·蒂尔贝里斯让我去拍摄。“你必须做出1990年1月那样的的封面。”她说:“你刻意的。”她想要能拍出一些东西,这些东西能看见未来十年的样子。我的反应是:“天哪,这怎么可能?你不可能把从一张脸上看出下一个十年会有的样子。这不可能做到的。”但我其实早就知道会发生什么。

This was the result. People always say this shot, this cover, was the birth of the supermodels, but that’s not entirely true. Two years before, I shot what were really the first of such pics – the white shirt shoots. At that time, I didn’t much like American Vogue. I found the women they were photographing so uninspiring. I preferred girls at art school. They wore tennis shoes and had a purpose. They weren’t just showing off earrings.

这是就是我上交的答卷。人们总是说这张照片象征着超模的诞生,但这并不完全正确。两年前,我拍摄了真正的第一张照片——以白衬衣为主题的照片。那时,我不太喜欢American Vogue的风格。我发现她们拍摄的都不青春洋溢、鼓舞人心。我喜校园女孩的气息,她们穿着网球鞋,意气风发。他们不只是想秀出炫耀漂亮的耳环。



American Vogue was uptown, all Bentleys and crocodile-skin handbags. It didn’t do it for me. I never went uptown.

American Vogue在上城区,全都是宾利和鳄鱼皮手提包。那不是我要的。我从来没有去过上城区。

Those white-shirt shots ended up in the bin, so I decided to try again. But this time I wanted to go downtown, to SoHo in Manhattan. “Are you crazy?” they said. Can you believe that? We shot it there anyway, on Watts Street. It was gritty, the New York I loved.

那些白衬衫的照片最终没有被采用,所以我决定再试一次。但这次我想去曼哈顿的SoHo试一试。“他们都觉得我太疯狂了。你能相信吗?不管他们怎么说,我们最终还是在瓦茨街拍了。这是我的倔强,要在我爱的纽约。

I first went to the city in the 1970s, when I was about 30. My wife at the time accompanied me – she was so overwhelmed, she didn’t say a word all week. I remember wondering why brands like DKNY would ask a German schmuck like me to shoot their campaigns. “Nobody else sees New York the way you do,” they’d reply. “New Yorkers don’t see the city any more. They don’t have your excitement.”

我第一次去这个城市是在20世纪70年代,那时我大约30岁。我的妻子当时陪着我,她太不知所措了,整整一个星期都没说一句话。我记得我当时想知道为什么像DKNY这样的品牌会要求像我这样的德国人来拍摄他们的活动。“没有人会从你这样的角度这样看待纽约,”他们回答道。“纽约人几乎迷失在这座城市,他们没有你这股对纽约的兴奋。”

The day of the shoot was fun. My makeup artist was due to fly in from Paris on Concorde, but there was a problem with the flight. When the Concorde had a problem, it had to either go on to New York or turn back to Paris, whichever was closer – even if it was just by a matter of minutes. At one point, the pilots had to dump fuel and there was kerosene streaming all over the windows. Can you imagine? My makeup artist never made it and we had to scramble to find someone else. I don’t remember who, but that shot wasn’t about makeup anyway. In terms of actual styling, we tried to hold back as much as possible.

拍摄的那天很有趣。我的化妆师本来是要从巴黎起飞的,但是航班在中途出了问题。飞机出现问题后,要么去纽约,要么返回巴黎,两个的时间只差几分钟。飞行员不得放弃副油箱,在窗户上到处都是煤油。你能想象吗?我的化妆师从来没有遇到这种情况。我们不得不手忙脚乱地去找别人。我不记得是谁,但那张照片不是关于化妆的。就实际的样式而言,我们尽可能地保留了它。

The supermodels were a revolution. There was a freshness to them that stood against the prevailing idea of what a woman was. These girls were outspoken, fun, poking at you, making edgy jokes, getting involved. Linda was always very clear and decisive. Without pushing anyone aside, she would just gravitate to the centre. Tatjana would take a step back and Christy would just stand there, looking beautiful. Naomi was incredible. I’d never met anyone like her and haven’t since.

这些超模都与众不同。在她们身上有一种很新鲜的感觉,与当时流行的人们心中对于女人的固有观念是不一样的。这些女孩都很率真,很有趣,对着你开玩笑,她们全心参与其中。Linda总是非常果断。她没有把任何人推到一边,但她就像有引力一样会被放在到中间。Tatjana将会后退一步,Christy就站在那里,看起来很漂亮。Naomi是那么与众不同,从那以后就再也没有见过像她一样的人了。

I’ve since been asked to recreate this cover for the new generation, but it’s never felt or looked the same. When people ask me if the supermodels can happen again, I always say no. Women are liberated now, freed from what they had to be, all perfect earrings and perfect makeup.

之后,公司希望我为新一代超模重新设计封面,希望与众不同。当人们问我过去那样的超模是否能再次出现时,我总是说不。女人现在解放了,摆脱了她们原本大家都认为她们应该有的枷锁,比如美丽的耳环和完美的妆容。

My idea of beauty has never changed. It’s about having the courage to be yourself. I carried on working with these girls even when they became much more famous. My reaction would always be: “Take the makeup off. It looks terrible.” If one of them said, “Oh, I have a contract with Revlon now, I can’t go without makeup”, my response would be, “Why would you sign something as stupid as that?”

我对美的看法从未改变。美就是有勇气做你自己。我一直都和这些女孩一起工作,即使她们变得更出名了。每次见到他们我总是说:“快卸妆,你这样子看起来很糟糕。”如果他们中的一个说:“哦,我现在和露华浓签了合同,我不能不化妆了。”我的回答是:“你为什么要签这种愚蠢的合同呢?”

Perfect features don’t make for beauty. Personality does.

完美的容貌不等于美丽,个性才是真的美。



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