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2017-07-24    来源:FT    【      美国外教 在线口语培训
Inside 24 Sèvres: LVMH opens its first multi-brand internet store
Today marks the launch of LVMH’s first e-commerce venture. The culmination of a 20-month-long project, 24sevres.com is a digital realisation of Le Bon Marché store in Paris, and the first undertaking of Ian Rogers, the chief digital officer of LVMH who joined the French luxury conglomerate in 2015.
数日前路威酩轩(LVMH)首家网店24sevres.com正式上线。前前后后历经20个月筹划的24sevres.com是巴黎奢侈品百货店好商佳(Le Bon Marché)的线上店,也是首席数据官(chief digital officer)伊恩•罗杰斯(Ian Rogers)2015年加盟路威酩轩这家奢侈品巨擎后的开山力作。

For more than 160 years, Le Bon Marché has been a destination store at 24 rue de Sèvres, known for its Parisian style and mix of established labels and emerging young designers. It was purchased by the LVMH group in 1984. “Shopping at Le Bon Marché is a special experience for both local and international clienteles,” says Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH. “With 24 Sèvres, our clients can now enjoy this unique feeling every day and night worldwide.”
成立160多年来,位于色佛尔街24号(24 rue de Sèvres)的好商佳一直是热门零售商店,以独特的巴黎风格和知名品牌与新锐时尚品牌荟萃而著称于世。1984年,它被路威酩轩购至麾下。“无论是本地还是国际买家,在好商佳购物往往有与众不同的感受。”路威酩轩董事长兼首席执行官伯纳德•阿尔诺(Bernard Arnault)说。“在24 Sèvres网店,我们的客户无论身在何处,都能全天候享受这种别样特色。”
Rogers, who was previously senior director of Apple Music, describes 24 Sèvres as the “shopping experience of the future”. Speaking to the FT from Paris, he added: “the combination of online and offline communication and experience has not been brought to the market by anyone yet. The internet has evolved from a text-driven editorial medium to an imagery and video-based one. We felt it was time to take our expertise in visual merchandising in the offline retail world and transform it online.”
罗杰斯原是苹果旗下Apple Music的总监,他把24 Sèvres网店誉为“未来的购物体验店”。他在巴黎接受《金融时报》采访后又补充道:“把线下线上的融通与体验合二为一后推向市场,这是前所未有的事。因特网已从最初发表文本评论的媒介发展成为图象与视频的平台。我们当时觉得这是利用自身在实体店商品陈列(visual merchandising)方面的专长,并把其‘嫁接’至网店的好时机。”
In a market already crowded with e-commerce sites, and in an area that the luxury brands have been slow to embrace, the site will have to work hard to stand out. Tomaso Galli, a brand managing consultant, says: “nobody needs another pair of shoes, or another place in which to buy them. But if you look at the statistics, and you look at the growth and performance of ecommerce, it’s clear that that is what’s growing. It makes good sense for LVMH to start ecommerce. But it will be important for them to define quickly what makes them special.”
想在店满为患的电商界(奢侈品牌一直慢半拍)脱颖而出,24 Sèvres必须使出浑身解数。品牌咨询师托马索•加利(Tomaso Galli)说:“消费者如今都有穿不完的鞋,买鞋的地方也数不胜数。但是看了电商发展速度与亮丽的销售业绩的统计数据后,就会明白迅猛发展的正是电商业本身。所以路威酩轩设立线上店意义非凡,但重要的是它必须很快用行动诠释自己如何别出新裁。”

Rogers suggests 24 Sèvres’ curatorial experience will become its key point of differential. “The first stage of e-commerce was technical, but the first stage is over. We are entering the second phase, which isn’t about technology, it’s about customer experience.” In their attempt to recapture some of the bricks-and-mortar experience of the store, the site inventory has been merchandised with an editorial eye. “Products are grounded and contextualised using props and backgrounds,” says Eric Goguey, chief executive of 24 Sèvres. “It’s a reimagined visual shopping experience.” It will also recreate the store’s famed window displays, with Faye McLeod (the visual creative director at Louis Vuitton), to create digital “storefront” windows.
罗杰斯暗示24 Sèvres的产品策展做法将是其独树一帜的关键。“电商的初始阶段是靠技术主打,但如今这一阶段已成历史。我们正步入第二个阶段,它不是科技主宰一切,而是仰仗消费者的购物体验。”为了让消费者重温实体店的购物体验,24 Sèvres网店销售的所有东西都经时尚编辑点评。“全部商品分门别类展出时都借助支架与背景。”24 Sèvres总裁艾里克•戈盖(Eric Goguey)说,“这是构想的视觉化购物体验。”它还将重新打造出实体店的橱窗陈列:由路易威登(Louis Vuitton)视觉总监法耶•麦克劳德(Faye McLeod)负责设计数字化店铺橱窗。
Like the store, the site will have a limited selection of items. “Customers won’t have to scroll through an overwhelming selection of products,” says Goguey. Each label will have its own personalised space featuring their own visuals and social feeds. Collaborative online exclusives will also feature prominently: the launch coincides with a 77-piece capsule collaboration with brands including Loewe, Chloe and Salvatore Ferragamo as well as a number of other lesser-known labels like the hat-maker Maison Michel, and the Italian-based Forte Forte.
与实体店一样,24 Sèvres也将选择性销售上架商品。“消费者在网店不必大量浏览。”戈盖说。每个品牌都有展示其视觉形象以及社群摘要(social feeds)的个性化空间。专为线上销售的产品也是一大特色:它的推出,时间上正好赶上了与罗意威(Loewe)、蔻依(Chloe)、菲拉格慕以及众多名不见经传品牌(如帽子品牌Maison Michel与意大利品牌Forte Forte)合推的77件混搭系列的问世。
“It’s a key part of our product strategy,” says Maud Barrionuevo, buying director for 24 Sèvres. “Our customer is looking for something unique that she can’t get anywhere else — we will be collaborating with our brands several times a year to bring exclusive product to the site.”
“这是我们产品营销策略的关键一环。”24 Sèvres采购总监巴里奥努埃沃(Maud Barrionuevo)说,“我们的客户一直在寻找独一无二的商品——我们每年都会与其它品牌多次合作专推网店限量版。”加利暗示奢侈品牌与名不见经传品牌的合璧将会让24 Sèvres如虎添翼。
Galli suggests that this mix of luxury and lesser known brands will be to the site’s advantage. “With the exception of a very few, most people are becoming bored of the mega luxury brands now. E-commerce sites fulfil the same role as magazine might have done one upon a time — they can educate and inform people about what’s going on. If LVMH can position the 24 Sèvres as the place to find the [cult fashion brand] Vetements of tomorrow then it could be very interesting.”
“除了一小撮人,多数消费者如今都对超豪华品牌出现了审美疲劳。电商平台充当了昔日时尚杂志曾经扮演的角色——启蒙消费者,并让其随时了解时尚动态。路威酩轩若能把24 Sèvres定位成‘淘’未来Vetements(知名时尚品牌)的地方,则善莫大焉。”
For LVMH, 24 Sèvres will bring Le Bon Marché to an international market. All inventory will be shipped from Paris, at no charge (once signed up to the site’s loyalty programme), with an initial distribution reaching 75 countries worldwide. Delivery times will vary according to country, with the slowest being Australia, which will arrive from Paris within three days. By comparison, the Yoox Net-a-Porter group have seven distribution centres across the globe, serving over 180 countries with its same and next day delivery service. Net-a-Porter also offers same-day delivery service within London, for £12.
对于路威酩轩而言,24 Sèvres会把旗下的好商佳百货店推介给全球消费者。所有商品都会从巴黎免运费发送(一旦签约成为网店会员(忠诚客户计划,loyalty programme),首批发货国为75个。货运时间因国而异,最慢的是澳大利亚,从巴黎发货三天内抵达。与此相反,Yoox Net-a-Porter在全球建有七大配送中心,可发至全球180个国家,能于当天(或第二天)送抵买家。在伦敦本地,Net-a-Porter还提供当天送货上门服务,收费标准是12英镑。
Galli also questions how integrated the site will be. “Can you return a Ferragamo bag to the Ferragamo store in Florence, for example?” Currently, returns will be via post or in-store, but anything bought from Louis Vuitton from 24sevres.com can be returned to a Louis Vuitton boutique. Buy from Paris, return in Australia — is this the future of luxury ecommerce? Watch this space.
加利还想知道24 Sèvres如何能与实体店实现整合。“比方说,菲拉格慕手包能否退货至佛罗伦萨门店?”目前,退货只能通过邮寄或是在所购店铺内进行,但从24sevres.com购买的任何一款路易威登产品都可退还至任何一家路易威登门店。巴黎购买的产品可在澳大利亚退还——这是否就是奢侈品电商的未来?让我们拭目以待吧。

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